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To take the fork apart for fitment to the motorcycle during mock-up:
Remove the center crown nut and main leg top bolts – Note position of washers under the top nuts for re-assembly later.
Remove the top tree.
Remove the stem nut.
If your fork was shipped with custom internal fork stops, install the stop plate and bearing cups as shown in the instructions for those components before proceeding
Your neck bearings must be packed with grease before installing onto the fork, or into the neck to avoid bearing surface damage. We recommend a lubricant such as Silkolene, for it’s high lubricating properties, and ability to cling to parts under stress.
Slide the lower bearing onto the neck, making sure that if an internal stop was used, the internal stop plate is installed BELOW the bearing on the lower tree.
With the bearing races in place on the neck of the frame, feed the fork neck through the frame, install the upper bearing and washer, and secure in place with the upper stem nut (the one that fits UNDER the upper tree)
NOTE: Be sure to use a thread lubricant on the stem to avoid galling the stem nut to the stem. This is usually FATAL to the stem, requiring part replacement. ARP thread lubricant or anti-sieze compound is appropriate here.
Just snug the stem nut against the bearings for now. You can torque it into place at final assembly to approximately 23 ft Lbs.
Install the top tree, crown nut, and top bolts. At final assembly, the crown nut can be torqued into place to 28 ft. lbs. The top bolts on the upper tree are only to be snug at final assembly. Do not over tighten them, as this can distort the upper tree. They are only there to assure that the main legs are captured by the upper tree. The fit and crown nut hold them securely.
Your fork was shipped with an axle in place. One side of the axle has a bolt that is NOT locked into the axle. Remove that bolt, and slide the axle free.
Install your front wheel, brake, spacers, etc. with the front axle torque at final assembly to be 35 ft. lbs. You should use a thread lubricant here, not Loctite. The bolt and axle are Stainless Steel, and will seize without lubrication.
To take the fork apart for finishing:
Lay the fork on two blocks on a flat table. Remove the lower rocker bolts and nuts, remove the rockers. Pay attention to where the washers go as you take them apart! They are specific widths, and sizes to be where they are! Keep them with the bolts and nuts as you take them apart! (It may be easier to do this if you have someone help you)
With the spring fork loose from the rockers, lay a towel or padding across the main legs to support the spring legs as you compress the springs. You can use a really big “C” clamp below the spring bar, and above the spring tree to compress the lower springs until you see the upper springs loosen up. At this point, remove the spring nuts from the spring rods, and remove the upper springs, and upper spring seats (Black Delrin)
Slowly remove the “C” clamp, and the spring fork will slide out of the spring tree. Remove the lower springs, the black delrin seats from the bottom of the spring tree, and you will see the lower seats and spring rods in the spring bar. You can remove these if you like for finishing by using a wrench to loosen the seat on the rod. It acts like a lock nut against the threads in the spring bar to lock the rod in place. If you remove them, note that there is a washer under the seat, and should be replaced to protect the finish you choose for the spring rods. All this hardware is Stainless Steel. You can leave it as is, or polish it if you like. It will accept paint or powdercoating if it is sandblasted for proper surface preparation, but all threaded and shank areas of the fasteners must be properly masked to avoid damage.
You can now have whatever finish you prefer applied to the raw components.
DO NOT PLATE, PAINT, POWDERCOAT ETC. ANY THREADED PARTS!!!!
The Upper Triple Tree has approximately 0.006” clearance for the upper main legs. If plating or coatings are applied to this area, fitment can be difficult. Minimal coating in these areas is a must!
You must remove the bushings from the rocker plates prior to coating or plating. Note the position of the bushing for re-installation to provide the proper spacing to nearby components.
Essentially, reverse the disassembly process, and you’re there. The Lower Main Leg Pivot Bolts should be torqued to 65 Ft. Lbs. The Spring Leg Pivot Bolts should be torqued to 45 Ft. Lbs. Both should be lubricated with a quality high pressure lubricant like Silkolene Grease for maximum life.
When re-installing the springs, we use a soft cloth and cardboard or plastic pad between the finish and the compression clamp to avoid marring the finish. As we install the upper spring nuts, we apply red Loctite, run the nuts down until they bottom out by hand, then align the flats of the nut to the spring bar below for that finishing touch. Then release the compression clamp carefully, while taking the time to assure the springs are turned where you want them.
As always, if you have any problems, give us a call at 503-645-4898 and we’d be happy to help.
Thanks for taking time to read through this. We’d appreciate your input and comments. If you have something you’d like to add, drop us a line by CLICKING HERE